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Business & Tech

NoonEats: Fried Haddock Sandwich at Marino's Fine Foods

It may be the season of fasting, but this Friday fish was a treat, not a sacrifice

For many Christians, the 40 days between Ash Wednesday and Easter Sunday mark a period of fasting, and during this season of Lent, members of Catholic and Orthodox churches are to abstain from eating meat on Fridays. But just as the tradition of not eating meat on Christmas Eve has evolved into an elaborate feast of seven fishes for Catholics of Italian descent, sometimes a meatless Friday can be a treat.

Such was the case when I ate lunch at Marino's Fine Foods in Echo Plaza, where Mountain Avenue meets Route 22. Known as Hillside Seafood for many years, Marino's relocated its thriving business to Springfield in 1995 and offers a large selection of deli foods, entrees, seafood and Italian groceries.

Marino's accommodates seating for more than 40 people, at small tables with green and white checkered tablecloths. On one side of the dining room are signed photographs of famous Italian Americans and sports greats, from James Gandolfini to Mickey Mantle. On the other side of the dining room are shelves of imported food products such as jars of roasted red peppers, cans of Pastene cannelini beans and boxes of De Cecco macaroni.

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From a selection of haddock, flounder, shrimp and scallop sandwiches (platters also available), I opted for the fried haddock sandwich, served on a soft, round Italian roll ($7). What makes Marino's fish sandwiches so good is not some secret blend of spices, but its simplicity. Two large irregularly shaped pieces of breaded and freshly fried haddock were served on the roll, with small sides of spicy cocktail sauce, tartar sauce and a lemon wedge. Hot and crispy on the outside, warm and flaky on the inside, the seafood was fresh.

Marino's serves Herr's brand potato chips – I thought the cheddar and horseradish ($0.99) would go well with my fish sandwich. That and a Boylan's soda ($2) complimented my meal well.

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Everything about this establishment looked spotless, from the translucent seafood fillets displayed under glass to the dining room tables that were cleaned twice while I sat and ate my lunch last week.

I returned the next day for a fried shrimp sandwich to go ($8), and the quality was just as good. Again, a simple sandwich of fried shrimp—not overcooked as many restaurants can—on an Italian roll with sides of cocktail and tartar sauce. This time it was Friday, and the quiet dining room that I had eaten in the day before was packed.

Whether you enjoy seafood year-round or are a Catholic looking for a good Friday lunch option, a fish sandwich from Marino's Fine Foods is a treat.

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